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A straightforward, day to day account of what we have done during the current year's cruise. What we found may help others. I hope that anyone interested in the area will cherry pick rather than trying to read from start to finish.
Our boat is a Hallberg Rassy 34, Anhinga. Home port is Darthaven, Kingswear opposite Dartmouth.
Mainly due to age, Jennifer and I cannot now sail unaided. This year, plan was for our son, John, Penni and their dog, Timmy to sail with us to and around Brittany. Timmy is the complicating factor. We can take him to Guernsey and on to France but cannot return that way. At some stage, Penni will have to take him to Dieppe and thence by ferry to Newhaven. This is one of the few Channel crossing possible for a dog without a car.’
Ports visited
St Peter Port
Lézardrieux
Roscoff
L’Aber Wrac’h
Audierne
Loctudy
To St Peter Port.10 June, 77 miles.
For several days, forecasts had shown a good (westerly)direction but pretty light but, as the planned departure day approached, forecast strengths increased to a good F5 with a touch of 6. So it turned out to be a good fast sail with full main and 1/3 Genoa until mikpmfd Channel when it gradually eased. The shipping lanes were kind to us. We went south about Guernsey arriving St Peter Port a short while before enough water over the sill.
To Lézardrieux. 11 June 46 miles.
In view of the low tidal coefficient, we were able to leave St Peter Port rather later than the usual optimum time giving us a longer sleep after yesterday’s long sail. We arrived at the Trieux river as the east going was starting to increase but not enough to be a problem.
At Lézardrieux.
We have a problem with the domestic battery in that it is not holding enough charge even to handle iPads. The local Accastillage/chantier was not very helpful, nor was the Roscoff UShip. In the end we have ordered a replacement from Amazon to be delivered to Roscoff.
The Saturday market was pretty good and fairly quiet but good. We ate at the Les Ar Deo, the pseudo Breton créperie. As always, quiet and a little understaed.
To Roscoff. 48 miles, 16th June.
The forecast was a favourable direction but light, We motored until we passed the Bar ar Gall W Cardinal buoy marking the entrance to the Bay of Morlaix. After that it was a good sail
The boat girl tried to give us a berth on Pontoon F! We explained that we had a 90 year old lady on board. She kindly found a berth on A! Age, sometimes is a useful card to play.
At Roscoff.
Waiting fot our new battery was no hardship. The town is pleasant, if rather touristy. The Brasserie at the marina was getting going after being closed. The croissants and pain au chocolat are good as are their Baguettes.
The downside was the non-arrival of the battery promised for Fridat 21st, we got a message saying it might not comr until the 25th! After much thought, we decided that we could cope while in France but wanted it for the cross-Channel later on. The marina will keep the battery for us.
To L’Aber Wrac’h. 37 miles, 21st June.
This was a “must go” because of winds on following days but hardly ideal. We motored all the way with some wind but too much on the nose. On arrival the only option as the visitors pontoon but we were able to move to a Carway(French for “fihger pontoon in the morning.
At L’Aber Wrac’h
We love this rather wild location – “Sauvage” a French lady once called. I do not think that Jorn and Penni share our feelings. The showers have always been a little basic and a little smelly. When a large number of boats arrived, they were worse than normal.
On Sunday , we left Jennifer on the boat and walked to Landeda for shopping. Excellent boulangerie and boucherie/traiteur. The day had started dull and misty but improved greatly. We took John and Penni for a short walk to a rather upmarket café, really a small hotel. The following day I took them to the Semaphore station, now disused, with its great view. We also watched the sailing school with its hordes of youngsters from 5 or 6 upwards learning to sail, wind surf, canoe etc. Always interesting to see the enthusiasm of the youngsters and the care taken by the instructors.
We had a meal at the Captain Créperie. As good as ever. I don’t think John &b Penni quiye see L’Aber Wrac’h with our eyes although they are beginning to understand our liking for the place.
For a combination of sailing wind an civilised departure time, it looks like Thursday will get us the 55 miles to Audierne another of our favourites but one that J & P do know and like!
We had hoped to leave on Thursday but the forecast of SW 4 or 5 with a big fire would have been unpleasant in the Chenal du Four together with poor visibility. Tomorrow will not be great but rather better with less wind and better visibility.
To Audierne, 27th June, 62 miles,
The forecast looked acceptable, if far from ideal. Météo France got it partly right in predicting strong winds along the Channel coast from L’Aber Wrac’h to the top pf the Chenal fu Four but failed otherwise. The winds were much more southerly - as the GRIBs predicted. Visibility was far from good, with mist and fog. We had to motor through the Chenal but sailed well across the Iroise and were going too fast to take the Raz de Sein at slack water. However, the wind first died the increased again but we had to beat, No problem, the timing still looked good. However, the still strong N going stream and a dropping wind eventuall defeated us. We had to motor from the Raz to Auduerne where we arrive half am hour after the marina office closing tine. As we had called them in advance, the lady harbourmaster kindly waited for us.
At Audierne.
Saturday is market day so we made the most of it. Good cheeses, great fruit and vegetables.
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The duty harbourmaster, Amber, kindly took us to see the Pointe du Raz de Sein from ashore. A great trip giving us views that we can only have imagined. The countryside was rural, with no sign of industry apart from basic farming. The area had been identified as a site for a nuclear power station although Amber said the idea had been dropped.
Returning to the boat, a British yacht had rafted with us. We had last seen the skipper leading a singing evening at the Ship Inn, Kingswear. His home berth is in Darthaven.
Last year we met Alain and Christine who kindly invited us to their second home nearby. This year, we were most happy to imvite them on board for drinks and a moct pleasant eveng,
To Loctudy, 1st July, 30 miles.
The forecast was spot on. A slow run to Pointe de Penmar’c, then a slowly increasing wind as we rounded the cardinal buoys Cap Caval, Spineg, Karrek Greis, Boulanger. To our surprise. There were many free slots.